Thursday, August 28, 2014

Homeward Bound from Iles de la Madeleine, Summer of 2014

Kite Surfers dodging boats
After the dinghy's outboard engine secured on the stern of Xcelsior II, we ended having to hold out for two more days. The usual, waiting for that weather window. Meanwhile, the kite surfers and motorcycles, cars and trucks racing up the sandy beach are entertaining us.  Best of all, one truck ended up with his engine getting salt water splashed and stalled.  Tides coming in .....a couple of hours later it is not looking good for the stalled truck.  Water now up to his doors.  They tried pulling him from the rear and front....not much luck. All I could think of is hope there were not any Sand Pipers nests destroyed during their foolishness.  Just in the nick of time, the truck gets towed out.
Cattle grazing on steep cliff of Entry Island
Entry Island










One week in the Maggies and we haul up anchor.  As we round Entry Island  at the high steep cliff is a herd of cattle.  I do not know what they could graze on as it looks like moss.  Kenny and Judy are waiting for us at Margaree River. Winds of course are dead on the nose and we missed high tide as we attempt the river.  The gannets playing chicken as they race the boat on the port side and fly under the bow,  then landing  on the starboard side near the stern, on the water. Unfortunately, as we approach the river month the tide was too low. You might say we no longer have to worry about the barnacles on the bottom of the keel .  "Sorry guys we will have to come visit by car".  So we ended up anchoring one more time out at Margaree Island where hundreds of seals reside. The bull seals were not impressed with us as they came close to the stern of the boat and beat their tails on the surface of the water. They always came near the dingy, perhaps they thought it was competition, attempting to steal their herd?  Maybe, trying to impress the female dingy, and entice her to join the herd? Unfortunately, it was too dark, we could not get a good picture...but these boys were huge and very aggressive, I would not want to tangle with them.
Seals at Margaree Island

Next morning,  Xcelsior II sails off her anchorage as we head for the Canso Strait Causeway.  Great sail as we race three to four Minke whales approximately 30 to 40 feet long just off Mabou, CB , only ninety-six feet of water.  That whole coast is beautiful.  A sight you don't see from the highway.  As we turn west up towards the Causeway, the winds dead on the nose and we pound into the swells.  The seas were 3 feet by 10; many times the boat littery comes to a full stop.  So much fuel was burnt (we calculated 50 litres for the distance of 22 miles). Because of the conditions, the engine ran out of fuel.  Thank god, for jerry cans on the upper deck and Ted's best investment of the siphon, as we heave to, and fuel at sea. Arriving  at Port Hawkesbury in time to for the duty manager to register us and go to Sobeys an NSCL before closing.  Once again, we have met up with Northern Dancer.

For two days we are "being held captive at Port Hawkesbury". Gusting winds 30+, the winds pushing us  onto  the marina and on our nose.  A young Quebec sailor came in, as he sailed solo from Panama, in a thirty-seven foot boat. Not sure if he was in a race or a personal challenge. There are a number of sponsorship logo's and websites decaled on the hull of the boat. The winds were in his favour for sailing to Sherbrook, QC.

Next morning, we depart at 5:30 a.m., not a ripple in the water until a few miles from Canso. To avoid a majority of the slop we tucked in through Canso and behind Andrews Island.  Northern Dance had to go around Andrews, due to her depth  and as they  try to get better winds and sea conditions. 
We had seen a number of albatross fighting the tuna (approximately 6-7 feet long) for bait fish were in the area (most likely mackerel). Northern Dancer radioed for our position and came into Port Howe with us.  Port Howe is one of our favorite spots, astounded by the beauty and protection it offers,  as we rafted up.  A gentleman and his daughter came by on their boat "River Rat" and offered us some mackerel , freshly caught and filleted.  An added touch to go with our pot luck dinner.  Cameras are never handy when a bald headed eagle fly above and lands on his perch.  Topaz leads Titan onto Northern Dancer (his first time stepping across a boat rafted up).  With caution, he walks aboard, peeking in windows and hatches.
Another beautiful Sunset and Anchorage

Mackerel offerings from River Rat










Next morning we sail two hours out, three hours in, one hour out and four in, to reach our destination Country Harbour.  Sailed, forty miles to reach thirty-five. Titan did not do well, once we tacked the noise frightened him, the rest was not pleasant, as he projected across the floor. Poor little guy, he was doing really good until now.  It takes so long to get into Country Harbour, from the entering the harbour to our anchorage, four hours had past. A grazing deer had greeted us.  

Muscle Farming
Once again, the slop the next day made sailing difficult.  In fact, a couple of times the bow was under water, resulting to the hatch taking on water.  A "severe thunderstorm warning" caused us to anchor  off  Little Liscomb Island.  A lovely spot and interesting cloud forms, as the thunder and lightening performs their events.  Next morning we motor into Liscomb Lodge for fuel and a well-deserved hot tub and swim. Deep Powder from Vermont (Non Such 36) had spent four years in Newfoundland and now heading for Chester, tied on the marina ahead of us.  They were anxious to hear what the sea state was, as they spent two days along side.  Liscomb is such a protected cove that you would not know that there was any disturbance of any sort.  Later that afternoon, Harmony VII ( Island Trader 36 Ketch), rafts up on our starboard.  We had a lovely visit with Mike and Gay. Ted had discussed how he see's Xcelsior II pulling out, so Harmony VII can tie up along the marina the following morning. Both boats remaining tied together, Ted will flash the engine and go forward, Mike would place his engine in reverse, a complete 180 degree turn and then untie.  This would prevent us from having to go too far forward into shallow waters and Mike tying up on his starboard side to point him in the right direction.  Pretty impressive, and no one around to take pictures.

Interesting Cloud Formations during Thunder Storm


Morning Sky after the storm

Deep Powder from Vermont

Inner Passage
Inner Passage
The slop continues and winds SW rather than N, so we decided to take the scenic route through the inner islands.  Anchoring, at Taylor Head, Mushaboom.  A lovely spot, the sandy beach reminds me of Lockport. Our next stop will be home.  Waking, to a very rare sight in the sky, at 5 a.m., Venus, Saturn, the moon and Orion,  sharing the same piece of sky at the same time.

Sun Rise in Mushaboom



Home sweet home!!  Theodore, Tug Boat motoring by us. The harbour is extremely active this evening, with three Harbour Hoppers in the water, along with Sylvia, Marr II and the regular ferry traffic.  Best sight of all was Wrights Cove Red Buoy, knowing marina E1, 8 was waiting for us.
Back home on E1, 8

Theodore in Halifax harbour
Overall the shake down was successful and without any major incidents, however, a list of 15 items to repair, moderate or replace....which will most likely double if not triple down the road.

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