Newport, Rhode Island

Newport, Rhode Island is a very active harbour. From a 12 meter challenge (there must be at least six countries represented), junior sailors out racing in 25 knot winds, along with a Norwegian cruise line anchored about a half mile away from us. The downtown core is hoping with millions of people roaming the streets and attractions.

Our first three days in Newport, we were berthed at the Naval Yachting Centre. A lovely facility with lots of activities. When we first arrived the Special Olympics were just heading out for their weekly sail on Rhode 19’s. Sailing courses consisted of ground school and on the water. Each berth had a dock locker for storage, which I believe is a great idea.

We are in our second day of heavy winds from Helene. To keep costs down we were leaving the Naval Centre to anchor in the downtown core. That way we could take in the water activities and enjoy our next two days on a different scale. Newport has been a rather expensive stop as all the facilities are here. West Marine where we purchased a new solenoid valve for the propane stove, Bluewater Charts picked up the Leeward Island charts and Yanmar dealer. Just a few to mention…I won’t go into all the attractions and shops. We have hoofed a number of miles in the last three days…Last night I treated my feet to a lovely foot bath.

Ted and I visited the Museum of Yachting, which housed many trophies and treasures from the American Cup and BOC Challenges Hall of Fame.

How to get out of a difficult berth with 35 knot winds. The wind was blowing us into the dock and once we go astern it pushes us into not only the dock but another boat. Therefore, Ted took his fishing rod with a half filled bottle of water. From across the water he casted the bottle towards me at the stern of the boat. I in turn tied a sheet to the fishing line, where Ted than reeled the line into him. This allowed us to self slip from the dock behind us as we winched the line in and pulling the boat out of the berth. The engine is on but not in gear. We didn’t touch the dock, or the boat next to us. The ride to downtown was not as easy with gusts to 35 knots making 2.5 Knots towards the inner harbour. Once inside the wind dropped to a mere 25 knots.

While visiting Newport we took advantage of some views by going to the Internation Yacht Restoration School. The Beetle Cats seems to be the wooden boat of choice for the students training projects. Once restored these boats go for sale as high as $11,500 US. The Seamen Church Institute is mission for sea men and women, where we are at present updating our blog. This is a lovely facility and operates from donations.

The best part of cruising is the number of interesting people you meet along the way.
Next stop....Long Island Sound!

Marblehead (Boston Yacht Club)

This picture only shows maybe a third of the boats in this cove. Boston Yacht Club is a huge sailing community. Marblehead itself is a small town that reminds me of England with alley ways leading to beautiful heritage homes.

Beverly, MA (Jubilee Yacht Club)

A beautiful spot and extremely friendly members.

Provincetown

Pilgram Monument

National Guard

These feathered soldiers stood guard over us for two evenings in a row. Drove Topaz nuts!!

Cape Cod Canal (Current and Whirlpools)

The boat speed is only 4.5 knots while the strength of the current pushes us through.

Cape Cod Canal (two of three bridges)

Cuttyhunk (a small island near Martha's Vineyard)

Enjoying Massachusetts

It’s been an interesting week since our last entry. First of all it’s a pleasure that Massachusetts obviously have rules for fisherman and where they lay their lobster traps. All channels are trap free….and believe me it’s a blessing (not to mention marriage saver). We spent two days in Marblehead (Boston Yacht Club). It’s a massive harbour with boats out of this world. Marblehead is a quaint town, very much like a small English village. Just around the corner is Salem and Beverly, these two communities often get passed by. However, I urge any one to reconsider. We had spent three evenings moored at the Jubilee Yacht Club and met a number of great people. Bernie, born in PEI has lived in Enjoying Massachusetts…

Beverly for forty-two years. This club is a members club, that each member puts in twenty hours of work (based on a $20 hour salary) or pay the four hundred dollars. The work would range from driving the launch boat (tender), manage the travel lift, gas jetty or any repairs the club may have. It was comical as every where we went we were known as “the Canadian’s”. Not to fear Canada…I made sure Ted behaved himself!!!

Provincetown, Cape Cod Bay, fifty miles across from Marblehead. Unfortunately, we arrived on Sunday evening rather than Friday or Saturday, as the night traffic here is quite entertaining. This community is very artsy, full of galleries from paintings to sculptures. All locals had a dog if not two. One gentleman had a hat and sunglasses on his little terrier. The one store we went into was designed for people like Paris Hilton, who like to dress their dogs up….mostly for dogs but the odd cat stuff. The stock ranged from every piece of clothing one could ask for…rain coats, mittens and booties to match, evening gowns to bikinis with hats of all styles. We could have picked up a lovely diamond or stone collar for Topaz as low as $65…or as high as…well past my bank account. Earlier that morning we came across a traffic sign “Slowly…Cats Crossing” I loved it!!

Today’s Tuesday, 19 September and back across the Cape Cod Bay, thirty miles to the Canal. The current here can be up to six knots; therefore, we want the tide behind us to help move us through, rather than against. When we arrived at 2 p.m. today the current would have been perfect, but it wouldn’t give us enough time to get on the other side before dark. The marina we have rented for the night allows us to wait for the morning tide and give us a better time frame for passage. This area (before someone discovered it to be a gold mine) used to be a popular anchorage called “Refugee Cove”. Now known as Sandwich Harbour at the fee of $1.80 per foot for a slip. Next stop Cuttyhunk and then to Rhode Island.

Biddeford, ME after thunderstorm

Lobster Trap HELL.....

September 11th and here we are in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. It took two very frustrating days to travel thirty miles. Maine and New Hampshire are two hell states for lobster traps. In less than an eighteen hour time span we got snagged twice.

Saturday afternoon we departed Portland, due to a thunderstorm and heavy winds, we attempted going into a nice little anchorage inside Wood Island (Biddeford) Maine. Just shy of a quarter mile before entering the anchorage we caught our first lobster trap. We took our boat hook and tied my never dull bread knife. This knife was advertised to cut through metal and we have proven it to be a very useful tool. Just as Ted cut us loose the winds come up at first 52 knots but went as high as 72 knots. So as stress plays its game, not only do we have to dodge traps but fight the winds and strong current as well. Once the rain came…it came in buckets..but short lived though. The positive side of this is it left behind a beautiful sunset and two rainbows. Hopefully the pictures will upload.

Next morning, the anchor wasn’t up for five minutes when the second trap snags. This one must have sunk as it was not visible. We ended up lowering the dinghy and Ted putting on his wet suit. One and a half hours later we were cut loose. No strain on our marriage during all this….no sir!!! Much!!! Not even as much as one lobster out of all this!!!

The tides here are ten to twelve feet, therefore, really causes a short travel frame. Very few areas to duck into (unlike Nova Scotia). Every piece of property along the coast there remains a beautiful home. I find the radio etiquette here on channel 16 is worse than our channel 68. Even the US Coast Guard…they must be only allowed a two second time frame to put out a ten minute notice. Security, Security, (Warning, Warning for those none sailors) and then the race begins….all you can pick out are two, or maybe three words. If you’re lucky, after hearing the notice for the tenth time, you might get the drift of the message, but not the whole message yet. Unbelievable!!!

Four monarch butterflies flew over us, they must be heading back to Mexico. As well, the geese are heading south.

Florence is coming up the coast, we will tuck in here for a day or two. Next destination Marblehead (Boston Yacht Club), Massachusetts.

Gulf of Maine Sunset

Topaz has an unexpected guest

It's Official...First Courtesy Flag Hoisted

Xcelsior has crossed the first of seven seas. The Gulf of Maine was quite calm at the best of times. The wind was always on our nose that meant more motor sailing than sailing. We averaged 4.5 knots the whole 260 miles. Ted’s new fuel tank lasted 248 miles. Not bad estimating!! We would have made it on 230 miles but ended up altering course. The last thirty miles, I decided to read the guide book for Rhode Island to Canadian Border (nothing like making these purchases and not utilizing them). Realized at that point, Portsmouth, New Hampshire, was not going to work in our favor. Portland, Maine became our new destination, as it is the Port of Entry Customs recognized. If we had of continued on to Portsmouth, we may have been denied entry and told to leave US waters.

Gulf of Maine is known for Right Whales. They are endangered whales, as they seem to get run over by boats. If your engine is running, as a warning signal, most whales will stay out
of the way. Not to mention we make quite the bow wake as we trudge through the waters. Right whales seem to be indulgent to these warnings.

We had a stow away on board at about 100 miles off shore. Or more so Topaz, had an unexpected guess for dinner. The pictures will tell the story.

Portland is a large boating community. Spring Point Marina, is one of ten marina/clubs. It was quite an eye opener as we entered the harbour and sighted, in the distance, millions of masts. Xcelsior, is one of maybe a dozen sail boats at this marina. The smallest power boat here might be thirty-six feet. Mostly Sea Rays and Carvers, and close to 500 boats. In the early hours this morning a large number of the boats departed for a Shark Tournament. The docking fee is $2.50 foot for one night, $67.50 per night (highly recommend anyone stay here as the people and dock masters are great). There goes our budget!! Booze is cheap though!! So that helps ease the pain.

Next port of call…Portsmouth, New Hampshire. We will be able to take a mooring ball at the US Navy Marina, at a more feasible fee. That way, if need be, we can afford a long waiting period as we wait out the next hurricane Florence.

Bird's Eye View

Bimini Creation and Topaz Indigent after dunk

Moon at Shelbourne, DYC, Lunenburg Ovens

Linus’ Black Cloud Continues

Just as we were doing some final touches on the boat (i.e. bimini, new cable and connectors for VHF) Topaz decided she should go for a dunk in the harbour. Quite indigent…trust me…once wet she still looks like a big girl. Our luck didn’t change. Just off Chebucto Head the auto helm stops and goes foolish. So we are sailing by hand for the next few days. Lunenburg was the closest AEL (Atlantic Electronic Limited), so it made for an unplanned visit. They were kind enough to exchange the system as ours was one year and ten days old. Less than half hour later, Ted was handing it down to me (my back was turned at the time) when the handle fall off. Splash!! Right into Lunenburg Harbour. Surprised it floated! Meanwhile it’s closing time for AEL and Friday evening. We will be back in Lunenburg on Monday. To make up for it we enjoyed a good feast of muscles, that David and Paula from Misty I, had hand picked for us.

Saturday morning we motor sailed off to LaHave to meet Erika and her parents. Diana remembered a story I had told about craving cookies, therefore, she made a batch of delicious chocolate chip cookies. I nurtured them for about three to four days. Enjoyed every bite, even shared with Ted.

While in LaHave, we met up with the Great Old Broad (Sally and Ed from Chicago). However, have lost them as they had to go to Yarmouth to get some duty reinburst and expect we will come across them in the U.S.A.

Presently, sitting on a mooring ball in Shelbourne Harbour waiting to see what direction Hurricane Ernesto is going to take. It looks like he is coming out to sea along the eastern coast. So if we were to cross the Gulf of Maine, we could come nose to nose with him and that wouldn’t be pretty. There are five other boats waiting with us. Three from Quebec, Alaska and France. So needless to say we have met lots of interesting people.

We look forward to hoist our first courtesy flag. Might have to wait until Tuesday to do so.