Northward Bound from Lacaya via Gulf Stream to Nova Scotia

After waiting out bad weather for over one and a half weeks in Lacaya, Grand Bahama's, finally 31 May 07 we had a green light. The sea's were rolly... but do able...providing you weren't prone to sea-sickness. Fortunately neither Ted, Topaz or myself had any worries there. Within about 80 miles (30 hours later) we were surfing the Gulf Stream with a push of 4-5 knots.

Just off Cape Canaveral, Ted finally got a big catch on the fishing rod. A beautiful 42" Mahi Mahi female, this making our third all total. The first two were caught on hand reels with a fish attracting device (FAD). All those dollars wasted on expensive rod and reels....who knew! We had full intentions of bringing some fillets home for friends to enjoy. However, the one time the freezer froze contents was now. We ended up in Southport, North Carolina, due to auto helm failing after getting wet. The Mahi Mahi ended up thawing and a few new friends were made on the marina, after they feasted. Days later, Ted and I thought we should have canned the fish. Oh well...the memory failed us.

During our stay in Southport, there had been a couple of stormy days which made Cape Fear inlet rather rough on the day of departure. Therefore, we headed towards Masonboro on the ICW, anchored for the night and departed early in the morning. Accompanied shortly after by a barracuda (who played about for a couple of hours). This making fishing impossible. Shortly after a few bottle nosed dolphins swam our bow (they don't stay long).

Cruising along nicely for a couple of days just south of New York when Chris Parker our Caribbean Weatherman, said we need to tuck in somewhere as a nasty front was about to hit. So thirty hours later we grabbed a mooring ball at Block Island, RI. Quaint spot as it reminded me of Scotland with the rock fences around the properties. Not to mention everything was uphill.

The common dolphins often came to visit, you could see them approaching you miles away as they came by the hundreds. Unlike the bottled nosed dolphins, the common dolphins had more energy and enthusiasm, as they played for hours. Topaz was quite entertaining during their stay.

From Nantucket Sound to Shelburne we were entertained by the fishermen. Their radios must have a radius of 200 miles...all they did was fight like small children. So often I wanted to get on the radio and tell them "Time Out...Go to your corners!!".

As usual the winds are on our nose at 30-35 knots as we approach Nova Scotia waters. The seas are sloppy, we have two reefs in the main and a small handkerchief for a jib. Fighting these conditions for approximately thirty six hours...it felt as though we'd take a step forward and ten more back. Finally, 2200 hours (10 p.m.) the 18th June we arrived at Hotel Bravo bouy, approximately 20 miles out of Halifax Harbour. We radioed Halifax Traffic, to see about the commercial traffic situation for the next six hours. Our reliable engine had failed us once again....therefore we would be under sail with no wind. Story of our lives coming into Halifax. Finally, 0630 and we have arrived at Sandwich Point with a large container coming out of the harbour and us trying to get further west out of their way, only to get headed and have to yet tack one more time. The pilot on the container sends the pilot boat over to ask us to move a little faster. The pilot boat explains our situation of no wind...no engine. Pilot expresses his concern by replying "Well, they best get out their oars". It was suggested we might want to go into Herring Cove and tie up there for the day, Only problem there is no way out without an engine. We tacked across the harbour to Majors Beach and laid the anchor at 0730.
Exhausted at this stage of the game. Approximately 1330 (1:30 p.m.) a friend and DYC member came out and towed us the remainder home to DYC. A fitting way to come back home.

I will post pictures just as soon as I am able to download them....keep tuned. There are some awesome photo's but we are without a computer presently. The salt environment finally killed the computer.

The Sharp Teeth of a Barracuda

Just ask Ted!

The Berrys to Lucaya (Little Florida)

The solitude of the under populated islands of the Berrys... is this why that area was the best over all for snorkeling? The mass variety of fish life, in shallow waters of six to twelve feet. Ted caught an interesting fish called the Saucyeye Porgy, within seconds after baiting his fishing line with chicken skin

We ventured on Stirrup Island tracking through the bushes and paths; the ground was so dry that the smallest Iguana sounded like it was twenty feet long only to be inches. The Iguana’s here are grey and black in colour, while Allen’s Cay in Exuma’s was greenish/brown.

We discovered the Norwegian Cruise Line’s and Royal Caribbean Cruise Line exotic islands, Stirrup and Coca Cay. Offering diving, sea-doing to the thrill of Parasailing. For the less adventurous, just a relaxing beach with shark nets and tiki bar. We met Morton, the maintenance man, one of three who live on the island for ten weeks at a time, year round.

The next day, the winds were coming up, so we moved around the other side of the islands to Great Harbour Cay. Such a quaint community, of 800 people. Our outboard was in need of carborator repairs, so we we had it repaired by Bennet. Early the next morning Ted lowered his fishing rod and met up with the teeth of a four- foot Barracuda. He bite him while trying to release him....such attitude.

Fifthy-six mile crossing of the Provincial Channel to Lucaya, Grand Bahama Island. We departed Great Harbour Cay at 6 p.m. out of the channel and anchored for an 11 p.m. departure. The forteen hour crossing would place us into Lucaya mid afternoon. We stood two hour watches. It was an exciting channel, with heavy cruise line traffic, as well as, commercial and sport fishermen. Once day light came, the Tuna were jumping by the thousands, in pursuit of the flying fish. We had three fishing lines out on our boat and two on another boat travelling with us. To our disappointment...no takers.

For the first two days in Lucaya, while waiting for our weather window to head north up the Gulf Stream, we treated ourselves to a dockage (first real shower and fresh water swim since January). The resort here has the comforts of everything one needs, even Topaz enjoyed the land life once again. The million dollar(s) boats that are tied up here…it’s breath taking that people have that kind of investment. The home across from our dock, was a house built around a forty to fifthy foot power boat. We could have one too…if only the phamplet published the price….this was our hint that it’s out of our price range. This area is loaded with resorts it reminds me of Florida from West Palm Beach to Mimi.

Nassau

There's definitely money to be had here... in the big city of the Bahama's.....between cruise boats and Paradise Island. There's massive motor boats as large as 250 feet. It looked like a destroyer.

What's in the Pail?

Curiosity kills the cat....and Topaz was surprised to find what she did. Tails flopping didn't impress her too much when she jumped back and almost fell into the companion way.

Catch of the Day...but the second one was even better

Mahi Mahi....long waited for...(for over forty years after a class project Ted did in grade four). This guy measures from nose to tip of tail 32"....and we will feast for four meals. Mahi Mahi are cleaned differently from any fish we have filleted before. You cut along the head up to the top fin and down the bottom to peel the skin off. Once skinned you then cut the fillet as usual. Turn the fish over and repeat for the second fillet.

While the second (bigger of the two) 52" and approximately 50 pounds was a female with the rounded forehead. Good eating!!!

Marinaded with lemon, thyme and cayenne spices.... wrapped in tin foil and placed on the BBQ....can't wait!!! Mahi Mahi was also nice in a Thai sauce.

George Town Family Islands Regatta

These Bahamain Sloops go like stink.....the "A" class have up to ten guys hiking out on the planks. ...while the smaller boats have anywhere from two to four people. It's the most unique starting line.....every boat is given a start number where they are moored...once the gun goes the race starts by hoisting their main and jib and get underway.

Just think on our Wednesday night and Metro Races....how stress free....less high blood pressured starts would be.

Staniel Cay to George Town, Exumas

Long: 23° 30.41 Lat: 75° 45.78

While in Staniel Cay, Ted, Bob and Bobbie (Callisto crew) had snorkelled the Thunderball Cave. This cave is where James Bond movie was filmed. According to Ted “After diving Thunderball Cave, even if we don’t go any further south, it just made the trip worth while.” See for yourself as you scroll below for some pictures.

We met part of the Burke family, who race a traditional Bahamian Sloop, Tida Wave. This is the Bahamian “A” fleet (28 ft. on deck, full keel, wooden hull with a mainsail that is to big for the Bluenose and a hankie for a jib). They carry four or five 2 X 12 planks and stick them under the lee Gunwhale, and the whole crew hangs out on the end as far as they dare. There was a few class 3 boats practicing on the weekend. These are only 16 feet, their mast is 40 ft tall and 25 foot boom. This is boat for boat racing with no handicaps. The George Town Family Island Regatta, 23rd of April, is like Metro Area Race Week with 20 to 30 islands participating. Apparently, the odds for Tida Wave to win are 7 to 1. If I were a beating person…I’d say The Burke family would be a good investment. This is not because it’s the fastest boat. These boats are all the same length and beam and are allowed as much sail as they want. It’s a matter of who will dare to carry more sail, for the conditions or the crew that is more crazy and chance capsizing to win at all cost.

A few days later, we ventured further south to a small island with a community of 55 people, Little Farmers Cay. These family members all originated from a lady name Christiana and her two sons, who settled there after being freed by slavery. Family names there are Smith, Rolle and Bain. Little Farmers, was by far an extremely hospitable island. They took us in, as if we were family.

On the west side of the island where we anchored, was a Haitian sailboat which had entered at night and hit hard aground. It was said that there were 165 illegal Haitian’s on board, who were picked up by immigration and sent home. It’s believed that a few may have drowned. Scroll down to see photo below.

Galliott Cut, entrance from the Exuma Sound to the Atlantic Ocean, had a very strong current. Callisto had gone through, during a following tide (the tide was coming back in). Their motor could handle the strength of the current, although they said they’d never want to do that again. Our engine would not have had enough power to go through. So we anchored for the night to cross at morning slack tide. Cuts should be crossed with a slack tide or low tide. Therefore, Callisto went on ahead of us, but not without difficulty. Unfortunately, they got as far as Adderly Cut and had to go in and anchor as they caught a fishing net wrapped around their prop.

We departed Galliott Cut at the wee hours of 0600 the following morning (slack tide) and about 0930 we received a call on the VHF from Callisto about their location and situation. We were only one half hour away, from Adderly Cut, to assist (although none was required). There’s a Research Centre on this island and we had teased that they must be researching as to “where did all this water come from?”. We found ourselves in thirty feet plus of water…trust me that is very unusual for the Bahama’s. Ninety-nine percent of the time, we are lucky to find six feet of water max.

George Town, seems to be the town like Marsh Harbour, Abacos. A number of cruisers come down and don’t venture on. They spend anywhere from six weeks to six months here. We expect to be here for at least a week to catch up on some maintenance. Stocking Island, just across the harbour has a number of paths to explore. The view from the top is breath taking.

Haitian Boat Sunk off Little Farmers Cay

Thunderball Cave

Thunderball Cave is where the James Bond Movie back in 1964 was filmed. "What a thrill"

Northern Exuma's

Sunday morning we aweigh anchor at Royal Island, to do a twelve hour crossing of the Exumas Sound. For approximately ten miles of this crossing you had to keep a close eye out for coral head’s. At low tide the coral would be above the water surface, while high tide all you could see were black patches ranging in size. It was like dodging a mine field.

Once arriving to Allan’s Cay the surge was strong and quite a bouncing night. The wind and current were in opposite directions, causing the variation in all the boats swing. Allan’s Cay is noted for a large population of rock iguanas. These are a protected wildlife. Over the year’s people have been feeding the iguanas, making them not afraid of human’s. A dinghy comes along side the beach and they are greeted by a herd of iguanas, expecting to be fed. As of yet we have not been ashore, but the boat is anchored approximately 500 feet off the beach and we could see this happen, as a young couple went ashore. Greeted by eight large iguanas (as big as four feet long and knee high in height).

The next four days was bringing a front of strong winds and squalls. Allan’s Cay was not giving us the protection we needed. Therefore, we moved over three miles and anchored at Highbourne Cay (private marina and island). We struggled to find an anchorage that wasn’t sand covering rock, as the Bruce would not dig in. Changing over to the Danforth we succeeded once again. Motored into the marina to dispose of garbage at $5 a bag and pick up a few groceries. Prices on items were extremely inflated i.e $6.95 for small bag of nachos. Just took a short jot down to the beach when Bobby spotted a shark. At the end of the dock were fourteen nurse sharks. This area is where “the catch of the day” are cleaned. They are creatures of habit and waiting for their free handout. You could pick out the dominating shark, as he would come to surface and do a swim about. Massive head and cold eyes. They looked black under the water but were actually brown in color.

Moved onto Shroud Cay, where they we a number of creeks and mangroves to dinghy through. We are now in the area of the Exuma National Park, every night the Park Warden comes by in his boat to check out for poachers etc. We ventured a path that lead us to a natural fresh water well, with a number of volcano vents. Found Camp Driftwood, where a hermit in 1960 had created a home similar to Robinson Crusoe. During the '90's the drug police had used this camp as it had a great view for Norman Cays planes flying in for drug dealers.